The Neck

IMG_3079
This entry is part 2 of 2 in the series Building an Acoustic Guitar

Shaping with a rat tail file

My lovely wife spent her weekend watching the kids and provided me with nearly two full days of shop time. In the intervening days I’d decided I wanted to build one of the guitars from cherry. I have a rather large stockpile and had read somewhere that Martin made/makes a “sustainable” series out of cherry, so it can’t be all that bad an idea, right? I’ll just set aside one of the two maple blanks for later and replace it with a new cherry one.

Another impressive touch are those laminated “racing stripes” in guitar necks, so I figured I’d try this as well. After pulling a nice looking cherry board from the stack I quickly cooked up another neck blank. For this one I would slice the blank up into three sections, insert some thin strips of purple heart, and glue it all back together.

This one went together fairly quickly and I was ready for the next stage. Per the book, I would glue a spline into the slots in the neck, covering the embedded truss rods. This spline is then planed/scraped flush.

Veneering the Headstock

Although steel string guitars traditionally feature a single 1/16″ veneer on the headstock, I wanted to use some of the nice figured veneer sheets I bought at the last woodworker’s show. Because I’d used purple heart for the racing stripes, I decided to sandwich a 1/16″ piece of purple heart in between the veneer sheet and head. Although it most likely will be hidden behind purfling, there’s a chance I’ll leave the purple heart edge exposed in at least one of them.

Cherry and purple heart sandwich

For one of the veneers, I “borrowed” an idea I got from another guitar builder’s blog post and created a two-toned effect by inlaying a wedge-shaped piece in the middle of the head. Although I’m pleased with the results, I focused almost exclusively on the vertical alignment and neglected to check how well-centered the piece went on. The result is that the lamination is noticeably off center. Ultimately I don’t think it will detract all that much from the final piece — and as this is meant to be a learning project anyway, consider this “lesson learned.”

I wanted to keep the headstock shape relatively simple. The pattern from the Cumpiano book was a bit too simple for my taste, however, so I made some minor modifications. I’m not sure it’s my favorite design, but it should work pretty well. I drilled for the tuning machines, cut the basic shape on the bandsaw, and sanded the headstock to its final shape.

 

Not exactly veneer tape, but it worked

Head drilled and cut

Shaping the Heel

I’ve been looking forward to this part of the process for some time. Most of the projects I’ve tackled to date featured nearly entirely machine-cut components. Even the hand-cut parts were essentially square, comprising straight lines and angles.

The heel, however, features smooth contours and significant hand-carving. Although I really had no clue what I was doing, I drew out some guide lines, touched up the sharp on my hand tools, and pretended that I did. And it was fun! First was roughing the curve on the bandsaw. Simple enough. Next, I started with my new low-angle block plane, narrowing the heel close to it’s final width at the fret board. The next step featured the 1″ and 3/4″ chisels to slope the sides down toward the heal cap. I’m guessing this would have been much easier with mahogany as opposed to the hard maple of this neck. I soon switched to a curved rasp, which made rather rapid  work of wood removal. Switching to a rat tail, per Steve Dickie’s video series helped refine the final curve. I used a scraper and some course sand paper to finish it up.

There’s a bit more refinement I’d like to do yet, but I needed to call it a weekend. I’m still working on designs for the headstock inlay. At this point I’m considering forgoing an inlay on the maple neck and moving forward with the soundboard. After shaping the heel on the cherry neck, I may spend some time on a significant inlay on this one and then set it aside while I complete the bulk of the work (and hopefully make the bulk of any mistakes) on the maple one. Then again, I might just soldier on with both guitars instead. We shall see…

Carving the heel

Completed heel carving

 

 

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Building an Acoustic Guitar

This entry is part 1 of 2 in the series Building an Acoustic Guitar

A few years back I was conversing with a co-worker and fellow guitar player. Aware I was an amateur woodworker, he suggested I build a guitar. “Luthiery requires special tools and skills…training. Naw, I couldn’t do that,” I said.

Google search.

Fast forward to last year when essentially out-of-the-blue I recall this conversation and start thinking — could I? It didn’t take long to find numerous examples online of folks like me, some with no formal shop and less woodworking experience, building beautiful custom acoustic guitars. So I thought, “why not?”

Have you considered, maybe, boxes?

One of the things I like most about the idea of building guitars is their relatively small size and raw material requirements. The majority of my projects to date have been cribs and dressers that tend to overwhelm my small 300 sq. foot shop. Building these require significant planning so I don’t wind up painting myself into a corner, or more accurately behind a large, heavy cherry dresser! I’ve often admired the work of many of the folks in the LumberJocks.com community who specialize in small, ornate wooden boxes. The skill, patience, and artistry involved is sizable though the end product is anything but. I considered trying my hand at one, going as far as to draw some designs and pick up a cheap grinder for doing some wild shaping work. However in the end, though I’m sure I’ll get to it some day, they just don’t interest me all that much; and although I feel fairly confident in my design abilities I don’t think I could come close to matching many of the others I’ve seen.

The Plan

It didn’t take long to discover that the book “Guitarmaking: Tradition and Technology” by Jonathan Natelson and William Cumpiano (frequently discussed simply as “the Cumpiano book) was essentially the core curriculum. So I bought and read it, twice. The authors’ build process is centered around a guitar-shaped workboard. After settling on a style (Martin Grand Auditorium),  I cut the shape out of acrylic and then used that to build the board. Being unable to get my hands on a Martin, I purchased the body layout online and had it printed out on a large format copier.

I knew I’d also need some additional specialty supplies. I have a reasonable stock of suitable wood. However I didn’t have any tone woods well-suited for the top and internal bracing. Although I did find an example of someone doing excellent work with domestic American hardwoods, I wanted to maximize the likelihood of having a decent, playable instrument at the conclusion of the process — so I placed an order with Stewart-MacDonald for some cheap sitka spruce tops, bracing, a couple truss rods, and some other incidentals.

The completed workboard

I lack any experience building guitars — or for that matter, any type of stringed instrument. However, as I see it my biggest challenge in this process will be overcoming my tendency toward impatience. I love seeing a project come together; and, with the exception of my personal safety, if I see a quicker way to accomplish something I’ll typically take it even if it means risking screwing it up. To be fair,  part of this urgency comes from the fact that I have very little “shop time” available to me — with four young kids, a full-time job, and frequent additional distractions and obligations, I try to make the absolute most of every moment in the shop. So a big concern was I would spend six plus months working on a guitar only to screw something up dramatically near the end of the build. My hedge against this: build more than one in parallel! I figure I might screw up one, but two, or three? Far less likely. Of course, there’s always the risk when working in parallel of making the same boneheaded move on all of them. So I’m actually going to work it in sections and complete a section from start to finish on the least attractive piece as practice for the next. Hopefully I’ll catch any issues with the first one before doing the same on subsequent pieces.

Building the neck

Cumpiano’s book begins with the neck. I figured I’d follow his lead and start there with my guitars. For a time I considered making multiple necks using different woods and build methods. The traditional scarf-joint method would naturally be first. However I also planned to build one by carving it from a laminated block of contrasting woods. A large curly maple board would make a great candidate for another carved neck. When it came time to actually build the necks it turned out that the lamination/carve method would waste far too much nice wood and by using the traditional method I would be able to build four necks with a relatively small amount of figured stock. So the decision was to resaw a large board of curly maple into a couple blanks and another board of birdseye maple as well. Thus I ended up with enough wood for four blanks using the scarf-joint method.

Neck blanks milled from curly, birdseye, and straight-grained maple.

 

The remaining pictures highlight the process taken to date. I began by building a quick custom taper jig for the bandsaw for cutting the 15° angle in each blank.

 

Sawing the scarf joints on the bandsaw

Then I sanded and scraped the resulting cut to clean it up and flatten it out (though apparently I didn’t take any photos of those steps), cut the sections for the heel block, glued it all together, and then sanded/scraped it flat, flush, and clean.

Scrapping the glued scarf joint.

 

Glueing the heel block.

After routing a channel for the truss rods and notching the tenon at the heel end.

Next steps…

Because I had originally ordered only a single truss rod, I decided to stop at this point before burying the one I had in one of the necks. My next step will be to glue a shim over the installed truss rods, scrape it flush, and then probably glue the veneers to the headstock. On a visit to the last woodworking show I picked up a $30 sample pack of veneers. I figured they might be useful for the guitar build, and it looks like I was right. Now I’ve just got to make a final selection of the specific veneer sandwich to use for each neck. I’ll probably stop with these two at that point and begin the process all over again with the other two blanks…provided I don’t discover some major mistake in these two before then!

A sampling of the selection of veneers in consideration for the headstock

 

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The “Veronica” Puppet Theater

This entry is part 7 of 7 in the series Puppet Theater

Upon seeing the version I built for my kids this past Christmas, my brother-in-law suggested that his daughter, Veronica, might like one as well. I’d already fielded a few requests for these and figured I really needed to come up with a more practical design — something a bit more portable/shippable and lighter weight. The original was also a bit unstable on heavily padded carpet such as that in our basement. So the new design would need to feature longer feet on the side wings as well.

With all of this in mind, here’s the newest design, which I’ve dubbed the “Veronica” after my niece.

Veronica in the Puppet Theater

The frames are solid maple with 1/2″ maple plywood panels. The top panel features a shop-cut birdseye maple veneer that I coaxed my Grizzly drum sander into thicknessing down to 3/64″. The intarsia is the same pattern used on the original, though this time I used bloodwood and mahogany, which I found significantly easier to shape than the original in purpleheart and walnut.

Intarsia Comedy/Tragedy Masks (bloodwood and mahogany)

The whole piece breaks down into four components, the two “wings,” the lower front panel with stage, and the top proscenium arch with intarsia masks. Threaded inserts in the front panels accept six (3 per side) brass 1/4 – 20 bolts passed through the wings. The curtain (built by my wife’s best friend Lisa) attaches to the arch simply with a strip of velcro.

Veronica’s expression upon viewing the theater for the first time was priceless! Hopefully she’ll get many years enjoyment from her new theater.

Here’s the project page on Lumberjocks.com

And here’s the page for the original:
Click for details: Cherry Frame and Panel Puppet Theater with Intarsia Comedy/Tragedy Masks

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Opening Night!

This entry is part 6 of 7 in the series Puppet Theater

Rehearsals are over, costumes and makeup finalized, and last minute script changes incorporated. On Christmas morning, the curtain went up on the new Jaromin Family Puppet Theater!

The completed puppet theater and puppet tree

The puppet tree loaded with new puppets

Take your seat, unwrap candies, and mute your phones, please.

The show begins

Nathan joins the show

9 month old Emma takes her turn center stage

Click for details: Cherry Frame and Panel Puppet Theater with Intarsia Comedy/Tragedy Masks

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Finishing Touches

This entry is part 5 of 7 in the series Puppet Theater

An Old Coat Rack

When I was a kid, I used to spend a fair amount of time in the garage playing with my dad’s “tools.” I use quotes because I believe his entire collection consisted of little more than a handsaw, an old bright orange Sears power drill, and a few random screw drivers. Needless to say, he didn’t spend a great deal of time building things — but I made the best use I could of this assortment.  I fondly recall one Christmas cobbling together a coat rack for my parents made of 2×2′s and a few brass wood screws.

This early piece came to mind as I began work on the next phase — a Puppet Tree.

The Puppet Tree

On one of her frequent visits to Costco, my wife discovered a number of sets of hand puppets. Unable to decide on which to buy, she did the only logical thing — and came home with all 32 of them! So naturally we’d need somewhere to put them all. We started discussing where to attach a bin or basket or fabric bag to the theater, but after some Internet searches, we settled on the idea of a rack or tree. Once again I borrowed heavily from a commercially available product, estimating measures from a small graphic. I had some 8/4 Ash left over from a cutting board project that would fit the bill perfectly. I also decided to replace the square base in the commercial model with some feet made of the same Ash arranged in a pinwheel.

Base and center pole

Assembled for finishing

Applying the Finish

Nothing terribly special here, just wiping on a few coats of my current favorite finish: Homer Formby’s Original Tung Oil finish. After using mainly Waterlox and Watco finishes for the past few years, I must say that I’ve grown fond of the results and ease of use of the Homer Formby stuff I can pick up at the blue big box guys. I used to use Waterlox, but the smell of their Tung Oil finish seems to last forever. Pieces finished with this stuff can be moved into the house immediately after it cures without fear poisoning the kids!

Finishing the sides

The front hung out to dry

Intarsia masks applied and finished

Putting it Together

With the final coat of finish dry and sanded out, I decided to put it together and install the curtains Lisa completed and dropped off a few days ago. Yeah, I think it came together well.

Assembled with curtains

RTA hardware installed

A view from backstage

Some theater lighting

I really love how the masks look!

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The Intarsia Comedy/Tragedy Masks

This entry is part 4 of 7 in the series Puppet Theater

A New Technique

When I first designed the theater, I knew it needed something in the top arched panel. To me, the most natural thing would be the traditional comedy/tragedy masks. Although I’ve done a number of inlays in the past, it seemed like this called for something more dimensional, like a carving.

Unfortunately, the last time I did any wood carving, we called it “whittling” and used it to make walking sticks and toothpicks at Boy Scout camp. I simply don’t have the tools and more importantly, the carving skills or know-how. However, it occurred to me that I might be  able to do some kind of intarsia piece. I own a nice bandsaw and some 3/16″ and 1/8″ blades that I’ve used for inlay work; and wasn’t intarsia basically 3-D inlaying?

After a number of fruitless Internet searches for templates, it appeared that I’d need to design one myself. Although I’m not much of an artist, I happen to have a sister-in-law who’s quite accomplished. She also has some experience with stained glass design, which dovetails quite nicely with the concept of an intarsia pattern. Kathy used some sketches we found online to create a couple mask patterns for me. After making some modifications to simplify the patterns for my tools and skill level, we ended up with the final design below.

Final Intarsia Pattern (click to download full-size)

A New Tool

For my first attempt at intarsia, I decided to try to cut out the pattern on a scrap piece of poplar. I glued down the pattern to the blank, mounted a brand new 3/16″ timberwolf blade in the bandsaw, and began to cut. The blade made quick work of it and I was able to make fairly accurate cuts. However, the kerf was simply too wide and ragged. The 1/8″ blade I have is an old generic one from Grizzly that I knew wouldn’t make a smoother cut.

So, what to do?

Naturally, the answer is a new tool! I ran out to Sears and for $100 (10% discount for ordering online for in-store pickup!) picked up a 16″ scroll saw that got fairly consistent and decent reviews. After spending some time warming up to the saw by cutting wavy lines in poplar, I glued the pattern to a slab of walnut and began to cut out the sad face.

"Tragedy" cut from walnut on my new scroll saw

My stationary sander worked very well for shaping the cut pieces and I must admit that it was a blast shaping the contours. The purple heart took a bit more effort than the less dense walnut — and 80 grit paper — to get the shape I wanted, but in an hour or so I had completed the shaping. I had originally considered using different species for the cheeks and eyebrows of each mask, but figured I didn’t have the time or experience to get a good fit. Ultimately I think this looks better anyway.

The masks cut, shaped, with a first coat of tung oil

I read an article online that suggested applying a coat or two of finish to the intarsia pieces before glue-up to prevent the glue from seeping in and showing through the final finish. This sounded like a good idea, so after sanding to 220, I wiped on some tung oil. The next morning I glued the pieces together on a piece of wax paper. I couldn’t be more pleased with the results!

Next steps…

I still need to cut the “ribbons” and mount the whole thing to the birdseye maple panel. After a bit of touch up sanding, the whole thing should be ready for 6 or so coats of tung oil finish.

Craftsman 16" scroll saw

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Building the “Wings”

This entry is part 3 of 7 in the series Puppet Theater

Now We’re Getting Somewhere

The front came out so nice, I’ve updated the design to include frame-and-panel side wings instead of plain edge-banded cherry ply as I had originally envisioned. It’s been a busy couple of weeks and there hasn’t been much shop time available, but I’ve scraped together enough hours — usually after bedtime — to finally cut, shape, and assemble the side panels (the theater’s “wings”) and prop the whole thing up. Now we’re getting somewhere!

Framed again

One of the coolest things about this particular project has been the wood. I purchased a pile of cherry on sale some time ago and it’s been sitting mostly idle since. So far, I’ve had no trouble finding the perfect board for each step of the way. And when I say perfect, I mean more than just color and grain. The frames for the sides were out of one board and the panels for both came entirely out of another — with almost zero off cut beyond basic squaring and trimming. Dude. I don’t think I’ve ever used a rough board so completely. I usually don’t make patterns, but as the sides called for mirror image curves, I figured it was a good idea in this case.

Tracing the curve pattern

Test Assembly of the Domino Joints

Knot a Problem

Knots can add a lot of interest to a piece. Ever since I built a dresser for my son Nathan, and was stuck using a board with a large knot in it for the top, I’ve come to actually seek them out for projects like this. This knot in a side panel is about the size of a silver half dollar on the back and results in a 3/4″ long slit in the front that goes straight through. Somewhere along the line I came across an article, or online post, or something that suggested filling large knots with epoxy. It worked so well for Nate’s dresser, I’ve been using the technique ever since. After it hardens, the light may still bleed through, but there’s no way this knot hole will ever chip out or expand. Thanks to whomever I stole this idea from!

Filling a large knot with epoxy

Glue up

Don’t Take a Bow…

My biggest fear with this piece is that during a more animated production, it’ll tip forward onto the audience. The wings are 12″ wide, but they don’t extend very far beyond the front of the stage. I figured it would be a good idea to build some chunky feet for them to stand on — and extend them a couple inches beyond the front. As with everything else for this project, I just happened to have the perfect piece of cherry leftover from an end grain cutting board. Once again, the Festool Domino made quick work of the mortise and loose tenon joints that would have taken far longer to do any other way.

Truth be told, I’m still a bit concerned. The feet will certainly prevent accidental tipping under normal use, but my 2 and 3-year-old boys can get rather…um…dramatic at times. I’m wondering if maybe I need to anchor this piece to the floor?!?

Feet for the wings shaped and mortised

Test Assembly

After attaching the feet, I was anxious to finally see the whole thing assembled. The puppet theater is designed to knock down for transport and storage, so I drilled some holes in the sides of the front to accept threaded inserts. The plan is then to drill matching holes in the wings and use 4 hex head RTA-style screws on each side to hold it together. The last time I used this technique was for the cherry crib I built for my youngest son from purchased plans. I had an issue with the threaded inserts tearing out the top layer of the cherry as the very course threads bit. I’m going to experiment a bit this time to see if using a slightly larger hole and/or chamfering the rim of the hole will eliminate or at least significantly lessen the problem.

Testing the assembly with Wings clamped to the stage

Next Steps…

The design calls for comedy/tragedy masks in the center of the birdseye maple panel. I’ve done quite a few inlays, but this time I’m thinking intarsia would be more appealing. However, I’ve never tried intarsia before, so this should be interesting, and hopefully a great learning experience. I’ve pre-finished the panels (single coat) and have been sanding to 220 all along, so everything’s pretty much ready to begin applying the tung oil finish. There’s also the curtains my wife’s best friend is making, and the felt backdrop and scenery pieces my sister-in-law’s working on. Finally, I’m planning to build a “tree” to hold the over 30 puppets my wife has already purchased from Costco.

Two weeks to go before the big reveal on Christmas morning…it should all be ready!

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Their First Woodworking Show

The annual woodworking show is this town weekend and I was determined to stop in to pick up some basic supplies that I can’t typically find locally in bulk. I thought it might be fun to bring the older two kids along. This turned out to be a great idea as the show ended up being more about them!

The main attraction for the kids were the booths from the local clubs and associations. The Fox Valley woodworkers and DuPage Woodworkers club members paid extra attention to them, one giving them small handmade puzzles. Others went out of their way to welcome them and treat them to friendly smiles and intriguing projects. A member of Chicagoland Scrollers took the prize by giving out some wonderful little wooden toys the kids played with for the entire hour long ride back home.

Looking at some intricate carvings

We even met Santa Claus at the show! He was kind enough to give out some candy and write down their Christmas wish lists!

Everyone Knows Santa Claus is a Woodworker!

What a great way to spend a cold and rainy December day! Hopefully they’ll want to come back with me next year!

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Constructing the Frame and Panels

This entry is part 2 of 7 in the series Puppet Theater

Birdseye Maple on Cherry

The design for the top panel calls for birdseye maple. It seemed a shame to use my only piece of birdseye maple up on just one project. I decided to resaw the board. A few passes through my old Grizzly G1066 sander later and I had a beautiful 3/32″ sheet of birdseye maple veneer. Because this is going to be used for a raised panel, I had to decide on the substrate. One technique I’d seen and had always wanted to try was using a different species substrate in a raised panel. The rest of the piece was cherry and I figured this would make for a really sweet contrast.

3/32" Birdseye Maple Veneer from the G1066

Completed Raised Panel of Birdseye Maple Laminated over Cherry

Assembly & Glue-up

Last Spring I picked up a Festool Domino at my local Woodcraft. Shortly after, my wife gave birth to our 4th child and the shop was essentially shuttered for the next several months. Now I’m finally getting a chance to play with it — and it definitely lives up to it’s press. The frame went together like a dream, about as fast as using a biscuit cutter, while working on much narrower members and holding together well without clamps during test assembly. These were by far the fastest mortise and loose tenon joints I’d ever created. The front panel went together clean and tight.

Test Assembly of the Domino Joints

Glue-up

Setting the Stage

No theater can be complete without a stage. This one extends 1″ beyond the sides and 1″ front and back. Rather than nibble away a notch on each side of the stage, I figured it’d be easier to rip the board in three sections, cut the middle piece shorter, and glue it back together. The result looks great with no visible glue line and, after a bit of touch up with a chisel, fit perfectly. After sanding the piece to 220, I ran a bead of glue on the frame and stage and clamped ‘em together. Since it’s long grain to long grain, and a pretty good fit, no joinery should be necessary.

Notching the Stage

Sanded to 220, the Stage Glued In Place

Next Steps…

I’ve made a few tweaks to the design so that instead of using some left over cherry ply, I’ve decided to make matching frame-and-panel pieces for the sides. I may also build some beefy runners for the bottoms to ensure it doesn’t tip forward. I can’t wait to craft the comedy and tragedy masks and apply the first coats of tung oil to the birdseye!

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Puppet Theater

This entry is part 1 of 7 in the series Puppet Theater

The other night my wife’s best friend’s daughter stopped by to help out with the kids while we ran some errands and completed some chores. She showed them a new game. They spent the evening in the basement hiding behind a blanket draped over a couple chairs, putting on puppet shows with the numerous dolls and stuff animals scattered about the basement.

They’ve been putting on puppet shows nearly every day since…which sparked an idea for a Christmas present/project: A Puppet Theater!

After a couple hours searching the web for ideas and sketching out some plans on SketchUp, I produced a design and began preparing the wood.

Puppet Theater Design in SketchUp

Puppet Theater Design in SketchUp

I have a couple hundred board foot of beautiful cherry I got on special last year and a really nice piece of birdseye maple a friend gave me in trade for a big block of Ash he needed.

Thanks, Ali!

Click Here to Download the SketchUp File

A nice piece of birdseye Maple

A nice piece of birdseye Maple

The cherry boards glued up for the bottom raised panels

The cherry boards glued up for the bottom raised panels

The top curve on vellum

The top curve on vellum

Frame prepped and laid out

Frame prepped and laid out

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