May 16, 2011
Upon seeing the version I built for my kids this past Christmas, my brother-in-law suggested that his daughter, Veronica, might like one as well. I’d already fielded a few requests for these and figured I really needed to come up with a more practical design — something a bit more portable/shippable and lighter weight. The original was also a bit unstable on heavily padded carpet such as that in our basement. So the new design would need to feature longer feet on the side wings as well.
With all of this in mind, here’s the newest design, which I’ve dubbed the “Veronica” after my niece.
Veronica in the Puppet Theater
The frames are solid maple with 1/2″ maple plywood panels. The top panel features a shop-cut birdseye maple veneer that I coaxed my Grizzly drum sander into thicknessing down to 3/64″. The intarsia is the same pattern used on the original, though this time I used bloodwood and mahogany, which I found significantly easier to shape than the original in purpleheart and walnut.
Intarsia Comedy/Tragedy Masks (bloodwood and mahogany)
The whole piece breaks down into four components, the two “wings,” the lower front panel with stage, and the top proscenium arch with intarsia masks. Threaded inserts in the front panels accept six (3 per side) brass 1/4 – 20 bolts passed through the wings. The curtain (built by my wife’s best friend Lisa) attaches to the arch simply with a strip of velcro.
Veronica’s expression upon viewing the theater for the first time was priceless! Hopefully she’ll get many years enjoyment from her new theater.
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Intarsia Comedy/Tragedy Masks (bloodwood and mahogany)
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Veronica in the Puppet Theater
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Here’s the project page on Lumberjocks.com
And here’s the page for the original:
December 27, 2010
December 19, 2010
An Old Coat Rack
When I was a kid, I used to spend a fair amount of time in the garage playing with my dad’s “tools.” I use quotes because I believe his entire collection consisted of little more than a handsaw, an old bright orange Sears power drill, and a few random screw drivers. Needless to say, he didn’t spend a great deal of time building things — but I made the best use I could of this assortment. I fondly recall one Christmas cobbling together a coat rack for my parents made of 2×2′s and a few brass wood screws.
This early piece came to mind as I began work on the next phase — a Puppet Tree.
The Puppet Tree
On one of her frequent visits to Costco, my wife discovered a number of sets of hand puppets. Unable to decide on which to buy, she did the only logical thing — and came home with all 32 of them! So naturally we’d need somewhere to put them all. We started discussing where to attach a bin or basket or fabric bag to the theater, but after some Internet searches, we settled on the idea of a rack or tree. Once again I borrowed heavily from a commercially available product, estimating measures from a small graphic. I had some 8/4 Ash left over from a cutting board project that would fit the bill perfectly. I also decided to replace the square base in the commercial model with some feet made of the same Ash arranged in a pinwheel.
Base and center pole
Assembled for finishing
Applying the Finish
Nothing terribly special here, just wiping on a few coats of my current favorite finish: Homer Formby’s Original Tung Oil finish. After using mainly Waterlox and Watco finishes for the past few years, I must say that I’ve grown fond of the results and ease of use of the Homer Formby stuff I can pick up at the blue big box guys. I used to use Waterlox, but the smell of their Tung Oil finish seems to last forever. Pieces finished with this stuff can be moved into the house immediately after it cures without fear poisoning the kids!
Finishing the sides
The front hung out to dry
Intarsia masks applied and finished
Putting it Together
With the final coat of finish dry and sanded out, I decided to put it together and install the curtains Lisa completed and dropped off a few days ago. Yeah, I think it came together well.
Assembled with curtains
RTA hardware installed
A view from backstage
Some theater lighting
I really love how the masks look!
December 15, 2010
A New Technique
When I first designed the theater, I knew it needed something in the top arched panel. To me, the most natural thing would be the traditional comedy/tragedy masks. Although I’ve done a number of inlays in the past, it seemed like this called for something more dimensional, like a carving.
Unfortunately, the last time I did any wood carving, we called it “whittling” and used it to make walking sticks and toothpicks at Boy Scout camp. I simply don’t have the tools and more importantly, the carving skills or know-how. However, it occurred to me that I might be able to do some kind of intarsia piece. I own a nice bandsaw and some 3/16″ and 1/8″ blades that I’ve used for inlay work; and wasn’t intarsia basically 3-D inlaying?
After a number of fruitless Internet searches for templates, it appeared that I’d need to design one myself. Although I’m not much of an artist, I happen to have a sister-in-law who’s quite accomplished. She also has some experience with stained glass design, which dovetails quite nicely with the concept of an intarsia pattern. Kathy used some sketches we found online to create a couple mask patterns for me. After making some modifications to simplify the patterns for my tools and skill level, we ended up with the final design below.
Final Intarsia Pattern (click to download full-size)
A New Tool
For my first attempt at intarsia, I decided to try to cut out the pattern on a scrap piece of poplar. I glued down the pattern to the blank, mounted a brand new 3/16″ timberwolf blade in the bandsaw, and began to cut. The blade made quick work of it and I was able to make fairly accurate cuts. However, the kerf was simply too wide and ragged. The 1/8″ blade I have is an old generic one from Grizzly that I knew wouldn’t make a smoother cut.
So, what to do?
Naturally, the answer is a new tool! I ran out to Sears and for $100 (10% discount for ordering online for in-store pickup!) picked up a 16″ scroll saw that got fairly consistent and decent reviews. After spending some time warming up to the saw by cutting wavy lines in poplar, I glued the pattern to a slab of walnut and began to cut out the sad face.
"Tragedy" cut from walnut on my new scroll saw
My stationary sander worked very well for shaping the cut pieces and I must admit that it was a blast shaping the contours. The purple heart took a bit more effort than the less dense walnut — and 80 grit paper — to get the shape I wanted, but in an hour or so I had completed the shaping. I had originally considered using different species for the cheeks and eyebrows of each mask, but figured I didn’t have the time or experience to get a good fit. Ultimately I think this looks better anyway.
The masks cut, shaped, with a first coat of tung oil
I read an article online that suggested applying a coat or two of finish to the intarsia pieces before glue-up to prevent the glue from seeping in and showing through the final finish. This sounded like a good idea, so after sanding to 220, I wiped on some tung oil. The next morning I glued the pieces together on a piece of wax paper. I couldn’t be more pleased with the results!
Next steps…
I still need to cut the “ribbons” and mount the whole thing to the birdseye maple panel. After a bit of touch up sanding, the whole thing should be ready for 6 or so coats of tung oil finish.
Craftsman 16" scroll saw
December 12, 2010
Now We’re Getting Somewhere
The front came out so nice, I’ve updated the design to include frame-and-panel side wings instead of plain edge-banded cherry ply as I had originally envisioned. It’s been a busy couple of weeks and there hasn’t been much shop time available, but I’ve scraped together enough hours — usually after bedtime — to finally cut, shape, and assemble the side panels (the theater’s “wings”) and prop the whole thing up. Now we’re getting somewhere!
Framed again
One of the coolest things about this particular project has been the wood. I purchased a pile of cherry on sale some time ago and it’s been sitting mostly idle since. So far, I’ve had no trouble finding the perfect board for each step of the way. And when I say perfect, I mean more than just color and grain. The frames for the sides were out of one board and the panels for both came entirely out of another — with almost zero off cut beyond basic squaring and trimming. Dude. I don’t think I’ve ever used a rough board so completely. I usually don’t make patterns, but as the sides called for mirror image curves, I figured it was a good idea in this case.
Tracing the curve pattern
Test Assembly of the Domino Joints
Knot a Problem
Knots can add a lot of interest to a piece. Ever since I built a dresser for my son Nathan, and was stuck using a board with a large knot in it for the top, I’ve come to actually seek them out for projects like this. This knot in a side panel is about the size of a silver half dollar on the back and results in a 3/4″ long slit in the front that goes straight through. Somewhere along the line I came across an article, or online post, or something that suggested filling large knots with epoxy. It worked so well for Nate’s dresser, I’ve been using the technique ever since. After it hardens, the light may still bleed through, but there’s no way this knot hole will ever chip out or expand. Thanks to whomever I stole this idea from!
Filling a large knot with epoxy
Glue up
Don’t Take a Bow…
My biggest fear with this piece is that during a more animated production, it’ll tip forward onto the audience. The wings are 12″ wide, but they don’t extend very far beyond the front of the stage. I figured it would be a good idea to build some chunky feet for them to stand on — and extend them a couple inches beyond the front. As with everything else for this project, I just happened to have the perfect piece of cherry leftover from an end grain cutting board. Once again, the Festool Domino made quick work of the mortise and loose tenon joints that would have taken far longer to do any other way.
Truth be told, I’m still a bit concerned. The feet will certainly prevent accidental tipping under normal use, but my 2 and 3-year-old boys can get rather…um…dramatic at times. I’m wondering if maybe I need to anchor this piece to the floor?!?
Feet for the wings shaped and mortised
Test Assembly
After attaching the feet, I was anxious to finally see the whole thing assembled. The puppet theater is designed to knock down for transport and storage, so I drilled some holes in the sides of the front to accept threaded inserts. The plan is then to drill matching holes in the wings and use 4 hex head RTA-style screws on each side to hold it together. The last time I used this technique was for the cherry crib I built for my youngest son from purchased plans. I had an issue with the threaded inserts tearing out the top layer of the cherry as the very course threads bit. I’m going to experiment a bit this time to see if using a slightly larger hole and/or chamfering the rim of the hole will eliminate or at least significantly lessen the problem.
Testing the assembly with Wings clamped to the stage
Next Steps…
The design calls for comedy/tragedy masks in the center of the birdseye maple panel. I’ve done quite a few inlays, but this time I’m thinking intarsia would be more appealing. However, I’ve never tried intarsia before, so this should be interesting, and hopefully a great learning experience. I’ve pre-finished the panels (single coat) and have been sanding to 220 all along, so everything’s pretty much ready to begin applying the tung oil finish. There’s also the curtains my wife’s best friend is making, and the felt backdrop and scenery pieces my sister-in-law’s working on. Finally, I’m planning to build a “tree” to hold the over 30 puppets my wife has already purchased from Costco.
Two weeks to go before the big reveal on Christmas morning…it should all be ready!
December 11, 2010
The annual woodworking show is this town weekend and I was determined to stop in to pick up some basic supplies that I can’t typically find locally in bulk. I thought it might be fun to bring the older two kids along. This turned out to be a great idea as the show ended up being more about them!
The main attraction for the kids were the booths from the local clubs and associations. The Fox Valley woodworkers and DuPage Woodworkers club members paid extra attention to them, one giving them small handmade puzzles. Others went out of their way to welcome them and treat them to friendly smiles and intriguing projects. A member of Chicagoland Scrollers took the prize by giving out some wonderful little wooden toys the kids played with for the entire hour long ride back home.
Looking at some intricate carvings
We even met Santa Claus at the show! He was kind enough to give out some candy and write down their Christmas wish lists!
Everyone Knows Santa Claus is a Woodworker!
What a great way to spend a cold and rainy December day! Hopefully they’ll want to come back with me next year!
May 11, 2009
My little shop got a workout this weekend when gal pals Kathy, Cathy and Tracy spent Saturday building new cabinet doors. “The Angels,” as they’re known to workout pals, picked up irons of the domestic variety to apply preglued birch edgebanding to simple plywood doors for a client of Kathy’s. I think Charlie would have approved.
Sabrina, Jill and Kelly
January 4, 2009
Or, more accurately a “Shark Guard” by LeeWay Workshop.
Installation
I’ve only had the opportunity to install this today, so I haven’t really had a chance to put it through its paces. However, so far I am impressed. The improvised packaging the unit arrived in was demonstrative of its small shop origins; the actual contents, however, were not. Installation was straightforward using the directions provided on the site. They warned that some owners of my saw (Craftsman 22124) have experienced alignment issues. I encountered this as well — leading to a bit of extra time spent applying, as suggested, small bits of foil HVAC tape to the mounting bracket. A bit of trial and error and I was in business. That is, of course, only after applying the supplied “shark face” decals, natch.
The Shark Guard Installed On My Craftsman 22124
Impressive
Overall, this is a very impressive package. The unit I received is the version 9.4 — with the big 4″ dust port and anti-kickback pawls. It also includes 3 different splitter sizes. Two for use with the guard and one “Shorty Splitter” for cutting stock with the guard removed. Swapping out the splitters is a snap, quite literally, using the spring-loaded plunger. Pull a ring and lift out the current splitter and then just slide in the new one until it “snaps” into place. The snugness of the fit is adjustable via 4 small set screws using the hex key, provided (nice touch).
Anxious to try this out, I attached a 4″ hose to the dust port, locked the guard in place and reached for a scrap of MDF. With the DC running, I experienced 100% visible dust pickup. Awesome!
Time will tell just how practical this new device will be, but at this point I completely intend on making this a near permanent fixture on my saw, removed only when the cut demands. The next step will be to build a support arm for the DC hose that will swing away when necessary. My expectation is the Shark Guard will make for both safer and cleaner table saw cuts.
Thanks to Santa and Lee!
September 25, 2008
One of my favorite features of the top, is actually technically a defect — a quarter-sized knot hole. While both my wife and I agreed that it added “character” to the top, I couldn’t simply leave it as it was; it was large enough to swallow up small objects whole and naturally not very stable.
A large knot
After some searching, I found a few references to folks filling holes like this using “Pour on” epoxy, of the type you might use to encase small chatchkis in a bar top.
A Slow Leak
On the first pour, I found myself constantly “topping off” the depression. I would fill the knot, level it off and a couple minutes later, most of it had been absorbed into the knot. By the time it cured 24 hours later, there was only a thin layer of epoxy, coating, but not filling the knot hole.
Puzzled, I decided to simply pour again. This time it filled just fine. The next day, while moving the piece, I discovered the cause: the knot hole went clear through the board and the epoxy
Pour on epoxy
was leaking out the bottom! With the first coat effectively plugging the hole, the second coat filled it nicely and easily sanded flush (something I was a bit concerned about). The effect is exactly what I had hoped for.
My Favorite Finish
I spent quite a bit of time sanding this piece — and it still probably wasn’t enough. For the finish, I had purchased a wipe-on, “low sheen” Tung Oil-based finish. The first coat on the drawers resulting in less than spectacular results. Though each row was was made from a single board, a couple adjacent drawers were a noticeably different shade. This prompted a second, more vigorous round of hand sanding (and a few choice words). This time, they took the finish much more consistently. A week later I had built up 5 coats on all parts and was ready to attach the top and call this project “done.”
Amateur
After reading
Dick Cain’s forum thread about “
Photographing Your Work” (PDF from
Wood Carving Illustrated), and feeling duly shamed about my previous
point-and-click-using-built-in flash-against-any-old-background photo sessions, I decided to step it up a notch. Unfortunately, I don’t really own any
real photographic equipment and can’t afford to start yet another incredibly expensive hobby at the moment.
So my first attempt fell rather far from the intended mark. I may take another crack at it later in the week — perhaps using a cleaner and less wrinkled backdrop and a couple more lights if I can find someone to lend me any! If the new pics are any good I’ll update this post.
In the meantime, here’s my (rather humbling) attempt at perfeshunal fotogerphy.
3/4 View of Completed Dresser
I thought I’d put some pics of the new baby’s older siblings on top…in theater we called this “dressing the set”…
Drawer detail
